Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Mexico City

The cab departed along a narrow access road leading to the highway. Cars parked along the road were serving up food from their trunks, folding chairs circled around. The cab driver crossed himself, kissed his rosary, and pulled into oncoming traffic on the jam-packed highway. We had arrived in Mexico City.

Much of what Americans know about this vast city is negative: we hear of the smog and pollution, we've heard rumors of the epic traffic, we fear the violence and crime that allegedly runs rampant. Many acquaintances, friends, and family members asked me, "Why are you going there?" or, "Aren't you scared?"

In contrast, Mexico City, or D.F., as the locals call it, is friendly and welcoming. Every corner is teeming with people, people crowding around street performers or vendors, people walking, shopping, and eating in parks, outdoor cafes, international stores, and smaller tiendas. People jammed into metro cars, buses, and cross-walks. The streets are populated with bike riders, dog walkers, friends on leisurely walks, and hurried business people on cell phones.The large population is part of what makes the city what it is. It is one of it's joys, not a detriment. Yes, the traffic is horrific, but the extensive metro system is well connected and runs about every two minutes.
Mexico City is a place where old-world traditions still thrive alongside new modern lifestyles. There are craft markets, Aztec ruins, and Hernan Cortes-era cathedrals, nestled between sky scrapers, trendy bars, and luxury hotels. People value and celebrate their pre-hispanic heritage, their Mexican identity and traditions, yet still live modern lives. Trendy neighborhoods filled with art galleries, boutiques, world-class food and frequented by young internationals and ex-pats, students and business professionals bump up against cobblestone streets filled with mariachi bands, danzon dancers, and old churches. No city is higher in altitude--D.F. stands at about 7,350 feet, in a dried up lake bed.There are world-class museums to explore, gorgeous parks, amazing food, and a wonderful sense of community, tradition, and culture. It's one of those places that cannot be replicated.

The sense of community is profound and overwhelming; neighbors sit together on park benches, weekend festivals and markets draw people out of their homes, and women sew, knit, and bead together at corner booths. The generations intermingle, young and old all enjoying the breezy afternoons and blue skies. People live close together and this is true also in the way they interact--it is not co-existence, but a shared existence.
We encountered a plaza full of couples dancing to an impromptu mariachi band; we stumbled upon numerous squares full of people shopping with their families and friends. Each make-shift food stand (and these were everywhere) selling tacos, tamales, grilled corn, tortas, and sweets, had stools or a small table adjacent so that people could stop, test out all the salsas, and chat while they enjoyed the quick snack. People enjoyed interacting with one another, and made a point to do so. People lived outside of their homes as a community, instead of as individuals behind closed doors.

I fell in love with this city. I loved the breezy, sunny (most days), 75-degree weather. I loved hearing Spanish all around. I loved the market hagglers, the busy streets, the food, and most of all the community and culture. There was little rush and urgency, and real enjoyment from spending time with others. People met friends in cafes and bars, people were acquainted with the people that owned the markets, bars, and stores that they frequented. Plazas filled up for music, crafts, and socializing. The immense city is alive and thriving because of this community; it's identity is firmly rooted in shared traditions and strong bonds among neighbors.


--Megan










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